From the top of Italy to Lake Maggiori

It was like a breath of fresh air heading back over the border at Claviere, driving east towards Turin. The hills seemed greener, the villages and houses prettier, a castle on every rocky outcrop and a church spire on every hillside.  We turned north to reach the alpine city of Aosta, which initially looks like a real dump. There is a truly massive abandoned building and surrounding industrial complex which is kilometres long. It is an old steel mill, unused since the 60's. Soon we passed the hideous monstrosity and entered the town itself, which is charming. 

View of the alps from the apartment.

The centre is based around a Roman fortified village dating back to 25BC. There are still large parts of the original town wall and corner towers standing, along with the theatre, the amphitheatre, the crypt-portico, the necropolis, and the villas. 


It seems usual to go for an evening promenade, and in the afternoon the town was buzzing with locals, tourists, competitors and supporters of some sort of running event. I'm now quite partial to a late afternoon Aperol spritz.

Aosta street scene.

Our long spell of perfect weather was showing no sign of coming to an end.  It had been around 27 degrees C and clear every day since our one rainy last day of the trek. Rather than a sweaty slog up another mountainside we opted for the full tourist excursion on the Skyway cable cars up to Punta Helbronner, at 3466m, up on the flanks of Western Europe's highest peak, Monte Bianco.

It was really fun, and the views at the top outstanding.  The change in altitude from warm valley to stark mountaintop is so abrupt it literally takes your breath away. We had an hour or so at the impressive cable car station, looking at mountaineers heading off over the glacier, Mont Blanc just a few kms away, and the Matterhorn in the distance.


The rifugio Torino. the Matterhorn and Monte Rosa visible top left.



Reliving memories of traversing the peak behind 39 years ago!

The Mer de Glace, Vallee Blanche.

Aosta on return was busy again, this time with a Sunday market, live music, beautiful displays of local food: salamis, olives, breads, and much much more.  We had the usual Aperol Spritz at the same local bar where they bring a plate of food with the drinks, gratis: pizza, pasta, chips, potato wedges, salami, fresh breadsticks. Yum, in fact so much we didn't need dinner. 

Taking the back roads is an experience, as generally drivers here drive really fast, especially around corners, totally ignoring speed limits, and are very impatient to pass a "slow" kiwi driver. We descended from the relatively clean mountain air into the haze of smog that seems to cover all of northern Italy. I'm not surprised that Dara had found some research saying that this area has the worse air pollution in all of Europe. 

It was only a couple of hours driving to get to the little resort town Stresa on the shores of Lake Maggiori the following day. After getting lost in the incredibly narrow streets we eventually found our apartment in the town centre. Cute balconies on both sides with views, and everything close by. We found a bar away from the main touristy square for our evening predinner spritz and beer.  And another free full plate of antipasto. We followed up with a classic pizza and pasta, going to bed rather full.

Not our rental car unfortunately. But Ferrari (and other supercars) are a common sight around here.


View from the balcony.

And the other balcony

There isn't a lot to do in Stresa  except relax and soak up the holiday vibe. We took the ferry visiting the three islands, hopping on and off at will, exploring the medieval alleys and colourful gardens.  Lunch of tomato bruschetta was so tasty. I'm really enjoying the Italian food.




Isola Madre, the largest island, with beautiful gardens, but mostly closed off unless you pay $$$.




Lovely lake views, with the blot on the landscape. Imagine Roys Peak in Wanaka with a quarry in the side!



Isola Superiore, smaller and more relaxed, you can walk right around the perimeter.


Isola Bella, the most formal island, amazing gardens but paid entry only, $$$.


Apparently San Vittori's 2000 year old bones are buried under the alter. Church on Isola Bella.




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