Achill Island and a day in town

September 10, 2023

Slightly weary from the steeps steps on Crough Patrick, we planned a roadie the next day to Achill Island. The roads narrowed when we crossed the bridge at Achill, and the surrounding bogs started to showed signs of recent peat cutting. There are so few trees the locals have always used dried peat as fuel for their fires.

The village of Keel with its vast golden sand beach is obviously very busy with tourists and campers in mid-summer, but quiet in September It seems that unlike the mainland towns with their colourful houses, the islanders have opted for a white-only colour pallet. They go for the minimalist approach to landscaping and gardening as well.

Typical landscaping and typical white house. The grass is always really green.

Our destination, at the end of the road, was the beautiful Keem Beach. The smooth yellow sand is sheltered by high rocky headlands on both sides, and several swimmers were enjoying the clear water and friendly waves. The area was made famous in the recent film "The Banshees of Inissheerin", where Brendan Gleeson's character lived in the little cottage at the beach.

Keem Beach.

Peaty brown streams.

Crough Patrick across the bay.

Keem Beach.

Our roadie then took us to the deserted village of Slievemore. This settlement, under the purple-tinged heather-clad slopes of the islands second-highest peak of the same name, is thought to have been first occupied in the 1700's. In 1850 after the peak of the famine, the entire village was abandoned due to rent increases, impoverished and unproductive land, and emigration. There were many evictions due to non-payment of rent. People were living in the area for more than 5000 years, which puts our own short history into perspective. The fate of the village doesn't highlight the effects of colonisation in a positive way.

One of the abandoned houses at Slievemore deserted village.

We passed more lovely beaches at Dugort before heading to the south end of the island and the wild White Cliffs of Ashleam. Tiny rocky harbours provide safe access for the local hardy fisherman.

Some Irish humour and the White Cliffs of Ashleam.

Our last day at Westport was spent exploring locally. The short walk to the stately Westport House and Grace O'Malley statue was pleasantly green, through cool woods and around a sheltered lake. Grace was a famous pirate queen who lived in the 16th century and fiercely defended Ireland against the English.